Emma D'Arcey

I am a natural dye colourist, textile designer, and consultant, specialising in natural dyes derived from UK tree waste for yarn production.

The materials I work with are sourced from agricultural or naturally occurring waste, and my practice is built on close collaboration with farmers, fibre producers, professional gardeners, and land stewards.

Rooted in artisanal industrial production, my work also involves partnerships with fellow designers and researchers to explore sustainable practices and innovative applications.

Over the years, my journey as a textile designer has evolved, from creating luxury products for my mono print marbling business to selling designs to prestigious fashion houses and interior firms in the UK and internationally. Today, my design focus is on textiles inspired by biophilia, complementing the tree waste dyes I develop.

I am currently establishing a local, scaled production system that encompasses every stage from extracting dyes from tree waste to yarn dyeing and woven fabric creation. This initiative is under the umbrella of AO Textiles, the sustainable consultancy I co-founded in 2006. In collaboration with The Somerset Yarn Dyeing Co, we have formed a partnership called AOGreen, focused on creating a range of naturally dyed yarns for both woven and knitted fabrics. By working directly with local resources and production partners, we aim to strengthen regional textile ecosystems.

Alongside this practical work, my research aligns with Radically Local, a research initiative at Istituto Marangoni London, where I am a Senior Lecturer. Through this role, I embed sustainability and localism into the heart of my teaching.